trip report 9/16 - 9/28 the good, the bad and the ugly

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Escrito por katie desde ( el día sábado, 01 de octubre, 2005 a las 22:01:24 horas :

Just returned from my first trip to Zi - Troconnes. All in all it was a wonderful/relaxing trip. First few days we spent at Troconnes at Inn at Manzinillo Bay. Stayed in bungalow #4. Nice place, a distance from "downtown Troconnes." Great surf, good places to watch the surfer/boogie boarders. Nice beach for shells, found some good ones right in front of IAMB.
The good:
1. The people, every local I met was charming and friendly. With out exceptions everyone smiled and answered if I said, "Ole or buenos dias/noche." The children are friendly and beautiful.
2. The food, at IAMB was good as was the service. Ate at The Palapa (right next to IAMB) and the pescadillos there were very good. The best meal I had in Troconnes was at the Burro Burracho. Walked to town along the beach gathering shells. Sunset, feet in the warm sand, cold Indio(s) shrimp quesadilla w/guacomole and pico de gallo. Then my husband thought it would be a good idea to walked "home" back on the road. Don't, 3km uneven footing and no lighing. Fortunately, a lovely family of locals pulled over and said something like, "es pelligra para personas en la noche aqui." Their offer of a ride was gratfully accepted and we rode in the back of their truck w/ their two charming little boys. I'm sure they were thinking "loco gringos."
As for Troconnes, a taxi is 600-680 pesos from the airport. The driver will stop for beer/ice along the way. Get your pesos at the airport because there is no where to get them in Troconnes. No restaurants, or tiendas that we went to accepted credit. Only cash and preferrred pesos. IAMB let us charge to our room and then accepted credit. Take enough pesos w/you and save some for the taxi back.
All in all I really liked Troconnes, you will too if beachcombing and book reading is enough for you.
The Bad: Don't forget your insect repellant because you will need it.

As for Zi, what a beatiful town in a very gorgeous country. We stayed at Club Intrawest for the next 8 days.
The good:
1. Again, the people.....Every taxi driver, local families/fisherman on the beach, people at the Commerical Mexicanna all genuinely kind and friendly.
2. The food, OK, didn't not have a bad meal the whole time I was there. A few of the restaurants were closed for the off season. But there were plenty of choices. We found ourselves returning to Paty's on Playa La Ropa 2-3 times. Their huachinago (red snapper) w/garlic and then grilled is to die for. Reynaldo (Rey)that works there was very nice and very efficient. I hope I fully communicated my appreciation.
Had lunch a couple of times on Playa Principal at Daniels. Very good food and Ricardo was awesome. Efficient and remembering our names each time.
On the day we were going to Las Gatas we were approached downtown by a young man w/ a great smile. His name is Chay Sanchez. He asked where we were going and told us about a palapa restaurant there on the beach. He showed us where to purchase tickets for a panga and when we arrived walked w/us down the beach to Amado's restaurant. We had friends w/ us and after we were settled w/drinks and books we asked Chay what the best trail to get to the lighthouse El Faro. He offered to show us and walked all the way w/us. This turned out to be a real good idea as it was a good to have a guide. Chay pointed out flora and fauna to us. When we returned to Amado's he suggested lobster tacos for lunch, which we ate. Very yummy. Too large of portions but very tastey. I hope we expressed to Chay how much we appreciated his kindness and great service.
Thursday found us at Atoyles Any's for pozole verde. Very, very good. Nice atmosphere.
Had lunch at La Perla, a very lovely restaurant. Much better service than most trip reports say. I had seafood soup and it was very good.
Ate at Club Intrawest once, nothing special and overpriced. Shopped at the Commercial Mexicana and cooked in a room a couple of nights. Garlic prawns w/tequila and lime. Not bad if I don't say so myself.
We walked and hiked alot. One day found us up on the hill near Villas El Morro. We met Eduardo Montes de Oca Rosas the manager. He proudly toured us through this facility and we will definetly stay there the next vist. Recently renovated, spotless, great infinity pool and "the absolute best view in town." A more complete kitchen and better view than Club Intrawest and half the cost. Thanks to Eduardo for his hospitality and he has much to be proud of w/Villas El Morro.
The taxis - Plentiful and convenient. The drivers friendly and willing to let me practice my Spanish. A taxi ride to Club Intrawest or Villas El Morro from downtown about 25 pesos. We would walk to town and then take a taxi "home."
Tried to see the children at the basketball court on Sunday but it was raining so hard we decided not to.
Went to Barra de Potossi one day, took a taxi there. Boat ride in the lagoon, met a neat kid named Jesus that didn't speak English but was very patient w/us for our Spanish. "Mas despacio." He would laugh and start over. We walked the playa for 2-3 hours and only saw 2-3 other people. Stunning. Took the local flatbed truck w/benches to the hiway, caught the bus there to Zi. Visited w/some very nice folks on the way back.
We got to experience tropical storm Norma. I rained hard for two days, lots of thunder/lightening. Our room at Club Intrawest flooded. The staff was great w/squigys (sp?) and sandbags. We went out to the beach and played like kids in the warm ocean. Thankfully, we turned what could have been a bummer into a really fun day.
Took a bus to Ixtapa one day and rented bikes along Zona Hotelaria, took bike path around golf course, past marina and thru the Astlan Ecologica Reserva to Playa Linda. Highly recommended. Good time, many beautiful birds/butterflies and crocs.
A highlight was the cocodrillo's on La Ropa. We saw Dad (about 9 ft long) Mom and 3 little baby crocs. Got up close and not too personal. Great photo ops though.
Again in Zi, all places except Club Intrawest and Commerical Mexicanna only take cash (pesos preferred). I used the ATM's.
The only ugly I can think of was the mosquitos/jejenes. Many biting bugs, some you can't even see. Take some insect repellant or better still buy some at the Commercial Mexicana. It was so good it even melted my toenail polish.
Thanks to all the lucky people that live there and are more than tolerate of us jealous gringos. And, thank you to Rob's board for all the good advice.
P.S. Went to Rob's wife's cute store and bought a really cute skirt.

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